INTRODUCTION
The Cordillera Occidental is the name given to the chain of volcanic mountains which stretches numerous Arequipa in southern Peru, down the Chile-Bolivia border to the northern edge of the Puna de Atacama. The mountains are almost all easy volcanic ascents though a few, such as the highest peak Sajama, are steeper and more eroded. The mountains rise in isolation from a generally high plateau at about 4200-4400m giving splendid views from the summits. There are active volcanoes throughout the length of the range. Access can be a problem and water is often scarce. The scenery in the area is superb with an enduring sense of remoteness and desolation. The air is beautifully sharp. Small villages lie scattered over the vast Altiplano, dwarfed by the volcanic peaks and battered by dust storms. In the wetter areas there are large flat swamps known as bofedales' where llamas and alpacas graze in their hundreds. Wildlife is easily seen and more numerous than in the classic ranges such as Cord. Blanca and Cord. Real. Vizcachas, rheas, flamingos and vicunas are all commonly seen, the condor is occasionally seen.
GETTING THERE
For the Peruvian Occidental the best base is Arequipa with daily flights from Lima on the domestic Peruvian airlines e.g. Aerocontinente. See the Northern Peru chapter for details of flights from Europe and the USA to Lima. For the northern Chilean and Bolivian Occidental either fly via Santiago to Arica or fly to La Paz and approach overland from Bolivia (see Bolivia chapter). There is not much to choose between these e two options though the approach via La Paz has the advantage as far as acclimatisation is concerned.
For the southern Chilean Occidental the best approach is to fly to Calama via Santiago. See the High Andes chapter for details of flights to Santiago.
SEASON AND WEATHER CONDITIONS
Ascents can be made of all the peaks in the Cordillera Occidental at any time of year. The area has a very dry climate and although it experiences the same summer wet season as the rest of Peru and Bolivia (December-April) mountain conditions are not badly affected. Recent storms may indeed reduce water problems in some areas due to a lower snow line.
CLIMBING CONDITIONS
This is a very dry area. Water is hard to obtain on many peaks until the snow line is reached. Only the highest peaks, over 6000m, have permanent snowfields or glaciers. Penitentes can be bad reaching as high as 5M on some peaks and making travel 'against the grain' almost impossible. Navigation on the almost flat summit plateaux could be a problem in cloud. Snow conditions are generally very stable though hard windslab can be found high on some of the peaks. Snow does not normally turn soft later in the day. Approaches over ash and scree can be arduous and these mountains suffer more than any others in the Andes from bad penitentes.
OTHER GUIDE BOOKS: None known
AREQUIPA
The main city of SW Peru
Arequipa is a pleasant and relatively prosperous city in southern Peru. It sits in an oasis at 2325rn at the foot of the volcano El Misti. There is a particularly beautiful Plaza de Armas, with El Misti forming a stunning backdrop.
SIGHTS
The nearby Colca canyon is worth a visit. There are many organised tours to this vast canyon which is supposedly the deepest canyon in the world. It is one of the best places in the Andes to see condors.
FOOD
There is a good supermarket on the SW corner of the Plaza de Armas.
FUEL
Kerosene can be bought at S end of La Merced. There are many petrol stations around the central area. Sources for Camping gas and bencina blanca are not known.
MOUNTAIN INFORMATION
A good source is Carlos Zarate who can be contacted at the Alliance Francaise opposite Santa Catalina or P0 Box 2480. Also try the Casa de Guias of the AGMP at Desguadero 126, San Lazaro.
MOUNTAIN TRANSPORT
Try the tour agencies towards the N end of Jerusalen or Carlos Zarate.
SOLIMANA
6093m, 5 days
A steep and eroded volcanic massif with an impressive S face overlooking the 3000m deep Chichas canyon. There are four main peaks on a ridge running for 1km in an arc around the top of the canyon. The highest point is near the NE corner of this arc.
ACCESS
From Arequipa as for Coropuna but continue towards the village of Cotahuasi for 30km to the next pass at Visca Grande (4650m)(PT). From here walk W, then SW to reach huts at Sora on the N slope of the mountain.
CLIMB
Up the N or NW side, including a glacier from 5300m, steep snow and ice, grade n/k.
Notes from a conversation with
Carlos Zarate (July
2004):
One day walk from Visca Grande to Sora. Second day to cirque.
Stay at cirque under letters "LI" of "Solimana" on the 1:100k map (see below)
at about 5650 masl.
Climb directly to summit or work towards west shoulder.
Watch for avalanche hazard during or after the rainy season.
Snow / Ice slopes approach 60 degrees.
BEST MAP
P1GM Sheet 3 l-q 'Cotahuasi', 1:100,000.
See crop of IGN map (1mb JPG)
WGS84 datum, blue UTM grid = 1 km squares.
COROPUNA
6425m, 5 days
A complex volcanic mountain plateau with an 8km long plateau over 6000m in height. The peak on the SW corner of the plateau, known as Bingham, appears to be the highest but this may vary with snow build up. The name means 'shrine on the plateau'. Remains of clothing from Inca ascents have been found as high as 6000m. .
ACCESS
Easiest from Arequipa in southern Peru via the small town of Chuquibamba (3000m - last food and fuel) then along the Cotahuasi road (PT) to Lag. Pallacocha (4750m). This lagoon can't be seen from road but is at the highest point of the road when the road is nearest to Coropuna. 8h drive from Arequipa. .
CLIMB .
The highest point is just behind the RH of two domes seen from Pallacocha. The normal route on this peak is by the W rib. High camps can be made at 5600-5800m, ld. then follow the RH of two prominent rock ribs and the glacier slopes above (small crevasses only). Go over the foresummit and on up. Coropuna can probably be climbed from several other directions just
as easily. .
OTHER PEAKS
Other peaks of the Coropuna massif would make easy ascents and a ski traverse would be an interesting expedition, though bad penitentes might make it difficult. .
BEST MAP
P1GM sheet 32-q, 'Chuquibamba', 1:100,000.
AMPATO
6288m, 5 days
HUALCA HUALCA
6025m, 4 days
SABANCAYA
5976m, 4 daysThree volcanoes in a remote setting only 100km from Arequipa. Sabancaya was erupting, throughout the early 1990's, throwing off a plume of ash every 2h in 1994 and may well be over 6000m high now. Hualca Hualca is extinct. A ceremonial puma skin was found high on Hualca Hualca in the 1980's. In 1995 the rapidly retreating glacier on Ampato revealed the corpse of a young girl killed by a sharp blow to the skull approximately 500 years ago..
ACCESS
Easiest from Arequipa along the Chivay road (PT) and then turn W to get to the remote settlement of Sallalli (4400m). 6h drive. There are~no facilities at Sallalli. From here walk up the unnamed valley which comes down from the col between Ampato and Sabancaya. A high camp can be established at about 5200m. Water flows only in the afternoons - very muddy. The peak scan also be approached from Cabanaconde (PT) past Lag. Mucurca in 2d. .
Notes from Carlos Zarate: A less expensive way to climb Ampato
is to get dropped off at 5,100m
by a 4x4 vehicle. After the climb hike down to the village of Achoma
(in northeast corner of cropped map, below) where buses bound for Arequipa pass by
several times per day.
AMPATO CLIMB
Several possible routes on the S and W sides of the mountain. The glacier is now only above 6000m. This is in very poor state with many penitentes, due to ash eruptions of Sabancaya. The normal route was from the NE, over the N summit, but this is hard work if penitentes are bad. The SW ridge is also possible - grade easy but n/k.
HUALCA HUALCA CLIMB
Hualca Hualca can also be reached from the Sallalli area. It is a more complex mountain with several valley glaciers. The normal route is apparently up the E glacier then N to the summit - grade
n/k. .
SABANCAYA CLIMB
Sabancaya can be climbed easily using the same approach as Ampato and then up the S slopes. Ash and some ice. .
BEST MAP
P1GM, sheet 32-s, 'Chivay', 1:100,000.
See crop of IGN map (1.8mb JPG)
PSAD56 Datum, blue UTM grid = 4 km squares.
CHACHANI
6057m, 3 days
A complex massif with many summits but very little snow. There are archaeological remains near the summit. .
ACCESS
From Arequipa follow the old road to Chivay, beyond Aguada Blanca. The road turns N along the E flank of the mountain to Cutipampa where a 4x4 track leads W and higher (up to 4800m). No public transport. .
CLIMB
From a camp on the E flank go up rocky slopes and over point 5852m to reach the summit in one long day. No permanent snow. .
BEST MAP
P1GM sheet 33-s, 'Arequipa'. 1:100,000, sheet 33-t for the approach
MISTI
5822m, 3 days
This perfect volcanic cone sits right above Arequipa in southern Peru. It is climbed very often and is something of a tourist mountain, people reaching the summit even in trainers and sandals. There ~s no water on the mountain except at the Aguada Blanca reservoir. There is usually no snow either. The mountain is another that was climbed by the Incas.
ACCESS Two approaches are commonly used. The longer climb but easier access is from the town of Apurimac San Luis (PT) on N side of Arequipa. The shanty town is not safe to walk through due to robberies. The other approach is a 3h drive from Arequipa to Aguada Blanca which gives a height advantage.
CLIMB
There are two normal routes:
1. S side from Apurimac San Luis. Head for Tres Cruces (3000m) then up under pylons to Los Pastores at 3300m. From here follow the path up a rib past a possible camp at 4200m, 1 d. Then continue to the summit.
2. An easier climb is from the reservoir of Aguada Blanca (3700m) on the NE side. Head for the prominent NE rib. There are a few tent sites at 4600m, 1 d. From here follow the path which takes a rising traverse up the N slopes to the summit. There is bad scree in places. The high camp on this route can also be approached from the village of Chihuata (PT) to the S, 1 d. .
BEST MAP
PIGM sheet 33-t, 'Characato', 1:100,000
PICHU PICHU
5630m, 3 days
A long ridge which dominates Arequipa's E skyline. The remains of a young woman were found with various wooden and copper items on the summit ridge. The highest peak is the centrally located Co. Crespon Grande. .
ACCESS
From Arequipa to Lag. Salinas (flamingos) to the N of the summit. .
CLIMB
Walk S then climb the E slopes of the mountain, no permanent snow and very easy. BEST MAP P1GM sheet 33-T, 'Characato', 1:100,000
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